I embarked on a solo journey to the Himalayas. No one wanted to join me, as they all said it was too far from home and they wouldn’t make it back before nightfall.
The holiday was supposed to be active. And it was. A tight schedule and very limited time.
Meeting My Guide: A Guardian Angel on the Trail
In Besisahar I met Bharat, who was my guide, guardian angel and… effective brake. He reined in my impulses to go further, higher, and faster. And that was a good thing because I probably would have gotten altitude sickness, which could have been fatal in the final stages.
Rising Altitude: Acclimatisation Stops on the Annapurna Circuit
Manang at 3540m: The First Acclimatisation Stop
The fifth day of walking. Already quite high. This was supposed to be a rest day and acclimatisation stop. Despite a slight headache, I decided that nothing was wrong with me and we could go on, and I would use that one spare day to stop over in Pokhara.
Pushing Onwards to Yak Kharka at 4018m
Overnight stay and still nothing ails me. And it should, because I’m a lowland creature after all.
The Final Climb: Reaching Thorong Phedi Base Camp
Thorong Phedi – 4450m: A Chilly Night at Base Camp
At night, the temperature in the hostel room drops below -5°C. I sleep well. Very well, even. Not a bad sleeping bag, it passes the test. In the night I wake up only once, because… my phone rings. I lean out of the sleeping bag, take the phone in my hand, and look: Cris is calling. He calls and calls. He doesn’t give up. I don’t answer the call because my roaming doesn’t work and there’s no signal here. I put the phone down and slip back into the sleeping bag. I fall asleep. When I get back, I’ll call Cris and ask if he tried to contact me by phone recently. He’ll say no. Was it perhaps the effect of a lack of acclimatisation?
In Thorung Phedi we meet other trekkers who will go to the pass the next day. They leave early, at 4:00, or 5:00 am. We set off a little before six. We’ll be among the first at the pass anyway.
The Ascent Over Thorong La Pass
High Camp – 4850m: A Quick Stop on the Way Up
A short stop and an attempt to drink water from a bottle. Frozen.
I keep going. I’m going uphill. It’s quite steep. Breaths are getting shorter and shorter, faster and faster. My heart is pounding and demands a break every few meters.
Encountering Fellow Trekkers on the Ascent
I overtake a certain older Australian. Our eyes meet and we read in them: are you still alive?
A little further on, a Chinese woman is sitting on the ground. The one in the yellow jacket. I ask if everything is alright. She nods and takes a drag on a cigarette. She clearly needed a moment of respite and a deeper breath.
Thorong La Pass – 5416m: The Summit of the Annapurna Circuit Trek
Celebrations at the Top of Thorong La Pass
Thorong La Pass: Om mani padme hum.
Colourful. Windy. Goal achieved. All the participants in the climb reach the pass one by one. All tired, exhausted but happy and satisfied that they made it, that they conquered, that… it’s the end of the ordeal. Handshakes, hugs, kisses, congratulations, even tears.
The Descent to Muktinath: Completing the Annapurna Circuit Trek
After a short rest, you can descend to Muktinath (3800). You should even, because at any moment a strong wind can start blowing and blow us away. Although the altitude will decrease and the atmospheric pressure will increase, probably no one would have guessed that this march would be as exhausting as the ascent.
Facing New Challenges on the Way Down
On the way down we meet a Nepalese man. He’s returning to High Camp from the pass. He forgot his documents… He’s not very happy about it. But there will be a record: three times on Thorung La in one day!
A Glimpse of Mustang from Muktinath
From Muktinath, you can almost see the mysterious land of Mustang. But that’s for next time…
Reaching Thorong La Pass was the culmination of my 12-day trek and my entire stay in Nepal. That’s why I decided to dedicate a separate post to it. It’s also the highest altitude I’ve ever reached, so far.
